Cavens Arms, 20 Buccleuch Street, Dumfries - interior in 2012
Ale
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CAVENS ARMS, 20 BUCCLEUCH STREET
This public house has been voted the Dumfries Pub of the Year by the Campaign For Real Ale in 2006, 2007, 2008 and 2009. You don't get so many awards for nothing. It is a cosy pub with nice soft seats and an atmosphere that instantly makes you feel relaxed. In addition to a superb range of real ales they also offer an excellent range of food - everything from homemade soup to 'King Prawns in a Fresh Chilli & Lemon Butter' and 'Haggis, Leek & Cheese Melt'. A good pub.
COACH & HORSES INN, 66 WHITESANDS
A homely sort of place with... wait for it... A REAL FIRE (Yippee!!). Of course, they don't use the fire in the summer, but come winter and the time when that cold white stuff grows on glass, this will be a magical pub. It's the only pub that I've been in in a good long while that sells Bass ale. Most unusual. They have two small Bass triangles affixed to the wall at either side of the entrance to tell the world. To be honest, I'm not sure about Bass. It is a name that was once attached to a great British brewing empire, but those days are gone. I thought Bass had gone, too, taken over by some foreign company. Still, there you go. It is, of course, nice to see that some things don't change. Bass ale still smells sulphurous and farty in the way that it always did.
GLOBE INN, 56 HIGH STREET
Established in 1610, this is an old inn in which Robert Burns did actually drink, as in 1796 he wrote, '...the Globe Tavern here, which these many years has been my howff'. The inn is a gloriously old and magical kind of place. They have the teensiest snug I've seen in a long while, with wooden benches along the walls, framed Burns stuff,  and as many drinkers as will comfortably fit inside. Robert Burns, it seems, spent a lot of his spare moments scrawling words on windows using a diamond ring, and the Globe has one intact example in one of its bedrooms. 'Gin a body meet a body coming through the grain, gin a body kiss a body the thing's a body's ain.' A most snug and delightful Dumfries pub, and with real ale too.
THE SHIP INN, 97-99 ST MICHAEL'S STREET
This is, as the barmaid said, a man's bar. Only men allowed, big manly men with cloth caps and unruly eyebrows. Women are allowed too, but only if they're manly in appearance and can demonstrate an acceptable level of manliness, as in ear-hair or hair in other manly areas. Right then, before I get myself in a heck of a lot of trouble I'd better just say that this is a good pub. It is located opposite St Michael's Church, in whose yard sits the Burns Mausoleum. The Ship Inn is a traditional kind of place full of old dark wood and memories. It's snug and lovely and they have real ale. I like pubs like this. I'm a man. Of course I do.
RATING
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Coach and Horses Inn, 66 Whitesands, Dumfries - interior in 2012
Edward Burns in the Snug of the Globe Inn, 56 High Street, Dumfries, in 2012
The Ship Inn, St Michael's Street, Dumfries - interior of bar in 2012