THE DUNFALLANDY STONE
The very fact that Pitlochry starts with the letters 'Pit' is an
indication of its Pictish roots. It is said that not a lot is known
about the Picts, that they were those small faerie folk who lived in
holes in the ground some time during those dank dithery Dark Ages. When
you read some of the myths that surround them, you are tempted to think
of them as hobbits, who were also small and lived in holes in the
ground. While they might not have left a lot behind in the way of
writing, the Picts did leave behind lots of standing stones. Many of
them have carved symbols, sometimes of beasts, sometimes of warriors on
horseback, and sometimes of patterns that we today do not recognise or
understand. This stone sits on a small mound about a mile outside
Pitlochry. Open your map (Ordnance Survey Landranger series, 1:50000
scale or one-and-a-quarter-inches to a mile, sheet 52, 'Pitlochry to
Crieff'). See Pitlochry at the top? Well, the
stone at Dunfallandy is just below, or south, of it, west (left) of the
River Tay. It is one of the best preserved stones in Scotland, and full
of carved mythical beasts and swirling knots. On the opposite side from
the carved cross, there is a man on horseback. I am given to understand
that this is probably Gandalf, when he fought on a white stallion at the
side of the elves during battle against the orcs.
SCOTTISH HYDRO-ELECTRIC VISITOR CENTRE
Located on the River Tummel, this awesome bit of engineering was
constructed between 1947 and 1951. It is a hugely impressive bit of kit,
with a walkway across the top of the dam offering great views over the
river. When stood on top you can sense the power inside. From deep within the massive
building comes a low hum, and you just know that way down there,
somewhere, big things are moving. Fish are also moving, as there is a
fish-ladder and a viewing window where you may watch salmon huffing and
puffing their way from the river to Loch Faskally, a loch that was in
fact created when the dam was built.
ATHOLL PALACE MUSEUM, ATHOLL ROAD
To my eternal regret, I did not make it to this attraction during my day
here. I could see it on a hill as I made my way to Dunfallandy, and it
looked like a magnificent fairytale castle. Rather foolishly, I had
tried to squeeze Pitlochry and
Dunkeld into the same day, and if there
is but one lesson to take away from this it is that being a tourist and
rushing around trying to see too much is not good. Not good at all. I
mean, ask any assistant in a Tourist Information Office and they will
agree in that far too many tourists are in a constant rush. Always
trying to figure out how to get somewhere else instead of staying put
and properly seeing the place you are already in. A day would not be
long enough to explore everything in and around Pitlochry. A week would
be better. The Atholl Palace Museum is 'a celebration of the people who
built, worked and visited the Atholl Palace.' Ten rooms have been put
aside to show what it was like in the Victorian period, whether as a
guest to the hotel, an employee working in the laundry, or whatever. The
building looks so wonderful that it is worth a visit for that reason
alone.
PITLOCHRY TOWN TRAIL
When you arrive in Pitlochry, go straight to the Tourist Information
Office in Atholl Road and pick up some leaflets. There's one titled, 'Pitlochry
in Bloom Welcomes you to Local Roots Town Map.' Inside it is a nice
easy-to-understand map of the town, including the location of various
bits of sculpture and of the 'Pitlochry Town Trail' information boards.
These boards are affixed to walls all over the town, and give a good
insight into the history of a particular area. For example, there is one
by Sunnybrae Cottage. The cottage is a private house, but it is a
seriously fetching little house that was at one time a pub. It was also,
in 1767, the site of a tragic accident. Go to Pitlochry and read the
rest for yourself.
A LITTLE WALK
If you've got your map, as detailed above (Ordnance Survey 1:50000 sheet
52), then you will immediately see the potential for hundreds of little
walks in and around Pitlochry. Big walks, too. It is pleasant enough
simply walking passed the whisky distillery at Milton of Edradour,
perhaps having a small sample, then continuing to Moulin for a small
sample of ale in the tiny brewery. Or you could walk a few miles towards
Killiecrankie and its visitor centre, where Bonnie Dundee fought and
died (at the battle, you understand - John Graham of Claverhouse did
not die in the visitor centre... okay, okay, he was set about by a
tourist guide after asking if there were any nice rustly cattle in the
area that he could listen to). Or you could continue beyond
Killiecrankie and walk to Blair Atholl with its wondrous castle and the
old church graveyard where Bonnie Dundee lies buried. There are even
mountains aplenty. Ben Vrackie, for example, is not far away.
Personally, I've always had my heart set on Beinn Mheadhonach, which
looks like a lovely mountain on the map. It sits some eight or so miles
north of Blair Atholl, but I would not recommend it to those who are
unfamiliar with mountains and the great outdoors. I understand that
there are midges on that mountain the size of mice, as immortalised in
the Burns poem... 'Oh ye flyin' mice that bumble, wi' wings that
buzz and beat...' Wherever you go, the choice is entirely
yours. Have fun.
THE ROB ROY WAY
The Rob Roy Way is a long-distance walking route, some 77 miles
long, that starts at
Drymen and ends in Pitlochry. As with all
long-distance paths it may be regarded as a great adventure
encompassing a number of days, where one is presented with the
opportunity to see mountains and lochs up quite close, to sup
ale and slurp soup in far-flung places, and to smell trees. As
it ends in Pitlochry, it is here that you will quaff ale and
fall into a snorty slumber of contentment.
[CLICK HERE FOR A SPECIAL ROB ROY WAY PAGE WITH INTERACTIVE MAP
AND ROUTE.]